World War II American Fashion

 Written by:  Kim Cox

A 1944 magazine ad for Tangee lipstick read that, to a degree, " . . . we’re still the weaker sex . . . It’s up to us to appear as alluring and lovely as possible . . . Whether you’re in or out of uniform, you’ll want to be completely appealing and feminine – you’ll want delightful satin-smooth lips and all the glamour of a silky, petal-smooth complexion."

Looking good was essential for stateside women during the Second World War  In early 1940, marketing stressed the importance of women’s appearance and their obligation of bringing beauty into family life.  The ongoing theme ‘beauty is duty’ prevailed.

The war, bringing on many civilian shortages, substitution became a way of life stateside, affecting daily life.  Even though, powder, eye makeup and lipsticks were considered necessary for persevering wartime spirits, some ingredients were no longer available.  Eighteen line of goods affecting style were in short supply, from castor oil and zinc to acetone.

One of these items, zinc oxide used in face powder was also needed in large quantities in tire plants.  The soldiers needed tires for their jeeps, thereby forcing beauty suppliers to search for substitutions. The talc in face powder was imported from Italy and since we were at war with Italy, they shipped no more.  The substitution for talc came from India and Manchuria which were countries thousands of miles away.  Shipment was scarce.  India was also a primary origin for titanium and titanium dioxide can replace zinc oxide which was also being seized by the paint and paper companies who used it for a zinc substitute.

Gums in the goo for women’s hair setting lotion and henna in most hair tints and dyes, instituted in the Near East. Nail polish, nail polish removers and hair-waving lotions all consisted of substantial industrial chemical ingredients.  Shipments could not be depended on and all the above were in short supply.

Military and civilian provisions included the same manpower, facilities and fibers.  The government wanted to conserve materials to prevent shortages and also keep morale up, without harming standing industries.  The War Production Board of the federal government established a series of regulations constituting many industries including cosmetics, lingerie and apparel.  Private citizens had to adjust any new clothing to the conditions with very few exceptions.

Anything using vast amounts of cloth or thought unnecessary were not allowed, such as:  Dolman, balloon and leg-of-mutton sleeves, aprons, overskirts, decorative trim, patch pockets and petticoats.

Men’s suits consisted of two-piece suits—a jacket and pants without cuffs, although before 1942 they consisted of four pieces—two pairs of pants, a vest and a double-breasted jacket.  This is where our sense of matching and mixing was established.

Source:  Research at the Smithsonian, Costume specialists seek threads of World War II clothing history, by Vicki Moeser, Smithsonian Office of Public Affairs

 http://www.si.edu/resource/topics/ww2cloth.htm